Monday, 5 March 2012

White Shirts; Wardrobe Basics Sewalong




The Overview

I've never sewn a shirt before.  I don't really like shirts, you have to iron them after you wash them.  Yuck!  Then again, maybe a well fit, basic white shirt would be a nice thing to own.  Here is my attempt.

Still taking pictures in a mirror, but hey! I left my head in the frame!
Smiling at the camera like a deranged model in a 1950s soap add staring adoringly at washing powder.
I used some cotton poplin from Dots and Stripes.  It has a touch of lycra, which I probably could have done without, but it is good quality, smooth stuff.  In retrospect, it is probably a little too see-through, but I wanted to keep things simple and not spend too much on this, my first attempt.

I used Simplicity's Amazing Fit pattern 2339.  And, I think the fit is quite good.  I cut a 12 and flared out to a 14 at the hips.  This is standard for me in big 4 patterns.  After blithely, cutting out the fashion fabric,  I had a scare, when I sewed the side seams with 1" seam allowances as per the instructions.  I couldn't even join the front plackets together!  I was busting out!  Luckily, going to the standard 5/8" seam allowance sorted everything out.  Except for the hips, where I needed every last bit of the 1" seam allowance.  So much for lapped seams.  (Oh yes, I had *BIG PLANS*.  But finishing the seams with an over edge stitch was not the end of the world.  There would be worse crimes against construction to come.)

Simplicity 2339
The construction nitty-gritty.

The instructions were pretty good, but I struggled in places.  How to bind the arm slit eluded me completely.  I just could not figure out how to neatly get around the apex.  The instructions glossed over it completely, and I considered trying to mitre it like a quilt or something but chickened out.  What we have instead is a wodge fabric jammed in without ceremony.  Just one of those details I hope people won't notice!

I couldn't figure out how to attach the binding to the cuff opening at the top of the slit.  It's just a mess.
 Also, the collar stand is far from perfect, but 2 minutes of hand sewing has made is passable.  I am sure there are tricks for all these things, I just don't know them.

I didn't manage to catch the collar stand at the edge openings.  Hand sewing to the rescue!
My final construction shortcoming, no picture for this one, was the top button hole.  The small area of the collar stand made a terrible base for my automatic button-holer.  Does anyone else have this problem.  It was sloppy, but I improved it a little with some hand stitches and then decided to ignore it.  Who actually buttons the top button anyway?  Right?

Up Next

I'm cutting out Stephanie's bow tie tshirt right now.   I loved her version, and I am tickled to be a pattern tester for her.  It looks like a peach of pattern and fingers crossed I get it done to show you by the end of this week.

My next wardrobe basic will be a khaki skirt.  (I have sent my shearling vest to a specialist cleaner.  Basically, I am hoping for a miracle on that one because I cannot figure out an elegant way to patch it. )
I'd like to use BurdaStyle's 10-2011-119.  I'm obsessed with how good MaryNanna's looks.  It looks better than the one in the magazine!  I know, I have a different figure, and it's just not sensible, but really, I won't be able to mentally let go of it, until I try.
Burdastyle 10-2011-119
Happy sewing everyone!

27 comments:

  1. oh man, my comment just got eaten again, or I'm going to be repeating myself!

    I LOVE the shirt, it's very flattering on you. The front darts are perfect for getting a nice fit and adding a vertical line. This is a super wardrobe basic. You're right about the buttonhole, *nobody* will ever notice it. And the same for the sleeve slit binding, which is always tricky. Even though I haven't sewn a shirt for umm.. decades I do remember that part!! I just remembered seeing a trick on Sherry's blog about this, here
    http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/10/tricks-of-trade-continuous-bound-sleeve.html

    Oh, and I love that skirt! A-line styles are flattering on just about everybody, and those pockets will be so handy.

    Now to get back on track with my basic wardrobe...but I think I'm going to rethink the pieces (since I won't be going back to work until the little guy goes to school full time...one more year! Woohoo!!) I really like the kind of pieces in the sewalong you're doing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Doh! I just went and read it. Clearly, very good advice. It's good to know for next time, thanks for the link. Sherry has so many great tips/tutorials that I can't remember them all!

      Delete
  2. That is a wonderful shirt and you did a terrific job. I also struggle with some shirtmaking details, but consider that some people NEVER try them...you are way ahead :-) Try looking up "continuous lap" for the arm slit you mentioned. The technique is basically a small bias binding on the slit. Pressing makes it look crisp. Wonderful job!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Great job on the shirt, Karin! I hate ironing shirts, too, but I love how a properly fitting shirt looks, so I grit my teeth and iron. Actually, it's not that bad - I don't mind ironing so much! And I love that skirt, too! I saw Mary Nana's versions and loved them. It's been in my queue for a long time!

    ReplyDelete
  4. It's a lovely shirt and you did a great job on it! I can do some of the fiddly things like the placket opening neatly but getting the collar stand to meet the front properly without forming an awkward "beak" shape is my nemesis.

    Not only a shirt to be ironed, but a WHITE shirt. An optimist, clearly. (I wear my white jeans all the time but they also go the wash very frequently!)

    The skirt is so quick and easy to make you'll have it finished before you know it. A -line skirts are very flattering for every body type, I can't imagine you'll have any problems with it style wise.

    ReplyDelete
  5. It looks great! Any little adventures in sewing definitely don't show! Wow, you've got a lot going on in the sewing studio!

    ReplyDelete
  6. I really like how this fits and looks on you! Those sleeve slits look super tricky though. It frustrating when the instructions gloss over something so important like this! I used to rather dislike wearing button-up shirts, but the more I wear them - the more I like them. Hopefully this fabulous white basic will grow on you :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Great fit on your shirt - it looks great! Very classic and I love the shaping of the darts. Can't wait to see your Burda skirt - I'm sure it will look great :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. You shirt looks great! If I ever get back to sewing I'd love to make that skirt, in denim no less. Re: the sleeve slit, I think (a bit late here and just had a 4-hour-meeting...) Sigrid posted something that might help (http://sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.com/2012/03/making-sleeve-slit-in-shirt.html). Good night!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Uta! I'll check it out.

      Delete
  9. My wardrobe is so in need of basics. Your shirt looks great - you've done a great job. I find if I dry shirts on a hanger they need less ironing. I've seen a few versions of this skirt and I think I need one. I'm seeing a chocolate brown cord version in my future although I think khaki is a better choice. I may live to regret the cord!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Your new dress shirt looks quite sharp even though you had a few tricky spots. I see Uta just linked you to Sigrid's sleeve slit tutorial (how timely!) and if you are looking for advice on collar sewing, I like following Sandra Betzina's method in her book, Power Sewing. It's very easy to follow and the results are great.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Your shirt looks fantastic, I think this is the first of many shirts for you. Here is a site with lots of tutorials, shirts included http://sewingtutorials.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  12. Your shirt looks amazing! I may have to sew one up one of these days..

    ReplyDelete
  13. Beautiful, and the fit is spot on! You will wear this and wear it; such a lovely design and a fantastically useful basic.

    ReplyDelete
  14. This looks so smart on you, and fits beautifully - brilliant job for a first shirt! I feel as though I haven't made a proper shirt for such a long time, but I've certainly been there and done that with the little details that get handstitched / fixed :-). And truly, no one seems to notice them. And in fact, if they stay in your wardrobe long enough, you stop noticing them too!

    ReplyDelete
  15. For the first try, this is impressive. I think your collar stand is quite respectable too. Plackets get better with practice so don't let that deter you from making another. I am sure you can master this.

    For the collar stand you may want to try the "burrito" technique which you can find several places on the web, Margaret Islander and Nancy Zieman use this technique. I use it and use Nancy's book as a reference. There are probably several tutes out there but there is one on my blog if you're interested.

    All in all, I think it looks great. I'm one who believes you can never have too many white shirts in your closet!

    ReplyDelete
  16. The shirt is VERY nice. The fit looks good too. I figure if you're sewing something with new techniques, who cares about the finish, and even the fit to some extent. It's like sewing your first garment ever: just focus on laying the pattern pieces out correctly and sewing a straight seam!
    Sherry did a nice tutorial on the sleeve placket: http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/10/tricks-of-trade-continuous-bound-sleeve.html

    And I have that fun skirt traced, too (among the many other things I have traced....).

    ReplyDelete
  17. I love how your wardrobe basic pieces are coming along. This is a great shirt and the fit is perfect. I remember seeing a useful picture somewhere showing the sleeve slit, where only the tiniest seam allowance is sewn around the curve. I will come back with the link when I find it.
    Looking forward to seeing your Bow-tie tshirt.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Really great fit, and the bust in particular is very flattering. I haven't sewn a real blouse in a couple of years because I find them so fiddly and unsatisfying. Bravo to you for tackling it!

    ReplyDelete
  19. What a great blouse--and that shade of white is really pretty on you. My Mom's trick for not ironing shirts is to pop them in the dryer for no more than 5 minutes and then take them out and shake the crud out of them before hanging them up and letting them dry on their own. It depends on your fabric, but it seriously gets out at least 80% of the wrinkles if not more.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I love that simplicity shirt pattern. My mistake when making it was not flaring out to a 12-14 at the hips so it was never comfortable to wear. I've since donated the two I made from that pattern for that reason. Some straight figured girl will be happy to find them.

    Yours is well made. White shirts are so versatile.

    The budra skirt is one of my favorite. I cut traced and cut it while away on a work trip a few weeks ago. I'm just not ready to make it since I can't keep my weight at a specific spot. I can't wait to see your when its complete.

    Thanks for the helpful post.

    ReplyDelete
  21. That is a great shirt, Karin...it's a flattering style for you. I'm sure you will find many, many ways to wear it!

    ReplyDelete
  22. Your shirt turned out wonderfully. You cannot have too many white shirts like this, but you are right, they are kind of a pain to take care of.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Your shirt looks great! I'm getting ready to make one of these. As for the top button? I never make a buttonhole. I sometimes stitch a button on, but after trying to do my first buttonhole there, I gave up. You're right... I never button it anyway!

    ReplyDelete