Trench Dress: Butterick 5598

General chit-chat about the dress

Here it, as per the pattern.

Trench coats are very fashionable, but I don't plan to make one.  They sort of fall straight from the shoulders which is a disaster one me.  I've seen some with gathered skirts, but these look terrible on everyone I've ever seen in them with the exception of a Beyonce in a magazine.  So this is my little piece of the trend.

Side view if this helps anyone.

My version of this dress looks a little pouffier in the skirt than other people's or the envelop.  Two reasons, my body poufs out at the hips, lol, and also my stiffer material doesn't fall as much as poplin might.

I wasn't wild about the sash, so I tried the dress with a few belts.  I think it looks loads better with a belt.

I didn't like it much with the sash, so I tried this skinny Boden belt.

But, it is this 15 year old Ralph Lauren belt that I think works best.

 Details about the sewing

Some things I love to sew, but don't really wear.  This I did not love to sew.  All that top stitching!  Lining! Button after button, arg!  As Claverie on pattern review remarked, it was like making a coat! 

But, I think I will wear this a lot.  Because it is heavy weight and has a tailored feel, it's comfortable to wear.  It doesn't feel like anything is "hanging out" or bulging or jiggling or whatever.

I read Carolyn's comments on this dress with trepidation.  I also had trouble pivoting on side panel inserts.  In the end, I didn't cut far enough and had to iron out the dimples.  It was never perfect, but the belt loops are strategically placed over my short comings.

I found that the belt loops were to high in the front for my waist.  I tried to move them down, but ended up making a hole in the dress with my seam ripper, so I settled for longer belt loops that I was able to make out the meagre scraps left from this project.  That's fine, large belt loops mean more belt loops and the design is barely compromised.

I used a piece of medium weight twill from Gorgeous Fabrics to sew up Suzie Chin's trench dress for Butterick.  I bought the twill intending to make trousers, then decided on a skirt and finally decided I really wanted to sew a dress.  I think this was a 2 yard order, but Ann is generous with her cuts, and I ended up with something more like 2 1/4 yards.  The pattern called for 2 3/4 yards, but with some ingenuity and some compromises, I managed to eek it out.

I had to piece the inside collar stand together.  It doesn't show or bother me at all. You can also see that I took Uta's advice and used this left over cotton lawn that I wasn't crazy about for lining fabric.

I don't know if you can see it, but I had to piece the sash together as well.  Again, I am not bothered, and I think I'll wear this with a belt anyway.

I sewed a 12 on top and cut out a 14 on bottom and then added an additional inch and a half around the hips.  I simply eased in all the excess fabric, when I attached the bodice to the skirt.  It was a lot to ease in over a small area too, I just barely made it.  Perhaps I should have sewn a 14 in the bodice anyway.  This feels a little tight just like the Simplicity shirt did.  Looks like I might have put on a little weight.  I am sure I am not the only one lazy about taking new measurements.  I just never feel like doing it, and always want to assume that I can use my standard measurements.

B5598 Line drawing, just in case you were curious.